Day 19: Shopping, a Castle and a Visit to the Firemen of Auros

On Monday, April 29th we decided to visit Duras. Duras is a small town in southwest France. It has one main sight that attracts visitors: the Chateau de Duras. There is also a medieval clocktower, and a sprinkling of attractive houses. This clock tower was originally part of the 12th century ramparts that once defended the town. Apparently there were originally four of these imposing gateways but now only one remains. Duras wines are highly regarded and we bought a couple of bottles.

And once again we were “lucky” enough to run into market day in Duras! There were beautiful fabrics, leather goods and a sweet young woman selling a bracelet-hair ribbon which I bought for our granddaughters Sydney and Katelyn. Then we ran into a woman from England who was selling jewelry. We bought several items from her. Her name is Tina Raison and she has lived in Duras for about 10 years. She has lived all around the world and decided to settle in Duras. She said there were several English speaking people living there and we did notice this as we were walking around. She said it was a great town. She visits several markets each week.

We couldn’t tour the castle until 1 pm so we decided to have lunch. Tina recommended the place next door and said they had great quiche. She was right!

Tina liked Scott and decided to give him a card that she had painted.
It is a picture of the clock tower in the town. See below.

We had some time before the castle opened so we walked around the town.

Different street signs and other sights. Marguerite Duras was a French novelist, playwright, screenwriter, essayist and experimental filmmaker. She was nominated for an Academy Award for her screenplay for the film Hiroshima mon amour. She was born in 1914 in French Indochina to two teachers (immigrants from France) and was sent to France before WWII to continue her education studying mathematics but changed her studies to political science. She graduated in 1941 and worked for the French government. During WWII from 1942 to 1944 she worked for the Vichy government in the book censorship system but she also became an active member of the Communist Party and a member of the French Resistance as part of a small group that included Francois Mitterrand. Her husband Robert Antelme was deported to Buchenwald in 1944 for his involvement in the Resistance. He did survive. When she published her first novel, Les Impudents, she took the pen name Duras because that is where her father’s house was located. The died in Paris in 1996.

On our way to the castle we came across a beautiful patio with spectacular views of the surrounding area.

Dominating the valley of the Dropt, the Castle of Duras is surprising by its crossing in the history of France! As early as the 12th century, the castle, a simple castrum, witnessed the conflicts between England and France, the latter being built in 1137 by Guillaume Amanieu, viscount of Benauge, Bezaume and Gabardan. ‘Alienor of Aquitaine with the King of France.

Taking advantage of the Franco-English wars, and later of the Hundred Years War, the castle is adorned with walls, drawbridges, towers and keep to become an impregnable fortress thanks to the money of Bertrand de Goth better known by the name of Pope Clement V, the edifice belonging to his family. This pontifical manna allows the castle and the family succeeding the Goth, the Durfort-Duras to cross all these war years, sometimes on the side of the French, sometimes on the side of the English, political and financial strategies elaborated according to alliances, whichever benefitted the family.

The end of the Hundred Years War and Castillon la Bataille in 1453 could have predicted a time of ​​peace but unfortunately the lords of Duras decided to oppose the Very Christian king by becoming Protestant in the sixteenth century. “King, a law, a faith”, the king of France decides to fight against the nobles not following this maxim, the Wars of Religion ravage France, especially Guyenne and Duras is no exception, city and castle are besieged Several times by the royal army, the most memorable seat being that of Blaise de Montluc in 1562. The Durfort-Duras tried by several years of war renounced their Protestant faith and get, in passing, the title of count! The door of social ascension is open: count, marquis, duke and peer of France, the castle then becomes a showcase of the financial, military and political power of the Durfort-Duras.

During two centuries the castle will live to the rhythm of the architectural evolutions: transformations, enlargement, embellishments thus becoming a villa inspired by the Renaissance and accompanied by French gardens. The French Revolution puts an end to all these works, henceforth the castle of Duras will live in another way.

Redeemed in 1969 at an auction by the commune of Duras, the castle, become in 1970 Historical Monument, has resumed a life chanted by works but restoration, more than 45 years without interruption! A stop under the entrance porch makes it possible to understand the extent of the work carried out thanks to the photographs of the years 1950-1960, the castle was close to the ruin. The constant dedication of the Duraquois, the permanent efforts of the municipality and the support of the State allow today to visit 35 rooms, to borrow the couriers, to go up to the Tower. The last novelty are the apartments of the Duchess. Indeed these apartments were opened in 2015, its room especially: paneled to the vault of the keep of restored woodworks of the seventeenth century, with tomettes and cabochons in perfect condition allow the castle of Duras to regain its letters of nobility.

After we got home we found out Julien had a firemen’s meeting and he invited Scott to join him. There were six men including Julien. They were cleaning their trucks and going over their equipment. Unfortunately they did not speak much English but Scott enjoyed the experience anyway.

2 thoughts on “Day 19: Shopping, a Castle and a Visit to the Firemen of Auros

  1. Mary,
    What a great journey you have been on in France! I don’t know if I would have all that energy but I would definitely take part in the dining experience. I’ve enjoyed all the great scenery, history and menus. You can be my tour guide any time!
    ❤️Barb

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